Finishes
Sealers - Pigment free to let the natural wood color show through. They provide
little
UV protection.
Wood Toners - Non-tintable with exceptional color clarity highlighing the natural
beauty of the wood grain without heavy pigmentation. Offers UV
absorbtion
to soak up the suns harmful rays, preventing
premature
wood deterioration. Special water repellents form a
strong
water barrier to guard against water penetration.
Semi-Transparent Stains - Tintable and longer lasting than wood toners.
Protects
from UV rays and adds fade resistant color
to
exterior wood while allowing the natrual beauty of
the
wood grain and texture to show through. Special
water
repellents form a strong water barrier to guard
against
water penetration.
Solid Stains - Solid stains are really only recommended for verticle surfaces.
They
tend to hide the woods grain, offers the highest UV
protection and give a mildew resistant coating.
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Deck refinishing is basically a two (non-consecutive) day project depending on the size of
your deck and/or any maintenance needed.
First, get your equipment lined up:
Power Washer with a 40 degree fan tip (it is
recommended to set the pressure at 3000 psi. The lower setting will work, but will take longer to finish the job. Higher
settings may damage the surface you are planning to refinish.
2 Gallon Pump Sprayer w/fan tip
Deck Wash / Cleaner
Nonchlorine Bleach
Wood
Brightener - for cedar & redwood decks only
Foam Applicator Pad w/extension pole
Finish - Sealer or Stain
Cleaning &
Bleaching
1) Wet the surface of your deck deck with water from a hose or power washer. The wet deck will help disperse the cleaning
solution evenly. Mix the deck wash / cleaner according to the directions on the container and apply it to the wet wood
with a pump sprayer. Allow about 10 to 15 minutes for the deck wash / cleaner to work.
2) Using the power washer, spray
the gaps between the boards power washing the mildew abd dirt from the wood using long, smooth, overlapping strokes. Note,
to aviod gouging the surface, hold the wand at least 6 inches from the surface and keep it moving continuously lifting the tip at
the end of each stroke.
3) Working from the railings down, use the power washer to spray away any loosened grime and dirt.
Rinse two or three times to ensure there's no debris to interfere with the bleach or finish.
4) To kill any mildew, pump spray
a diluted solution of nonchlorine bleach on the wet wood. For cedar, redwood or other hardwoods mix 6 parts water to 1 part
bleach; for pine mix 2 parts water to 1 part bleach. Wait 10 to 20 minutes and rinse throughly with water. To lighten
cedar or redwood follow with a solution of wood brightener. Apply to the wet wood with the pump sprayer. Allow the brightener
to work for 10 minutes and rinse.
Applying the Finish
After the deck is thoroughly dry with at least three consecutive days without
rain you'll be ready to apply the finish. Make sure you wait for a day when there is no chance chance for rain and little
wind. You may want to drap plastic sheets or tarps over plants, grass or any other nearby structures to protect from over spray.
1)
Working from the top down, stain the railings and slats / balusters with the foam applicator pad. Watch for any drips that form
and immediately wipe them away.
2) Using a pump sprayer, apply the finish in long, even, slightly overlapping strokes along the
lenght of the board. Be sure to spray between boards too to protect their edges. Stop spraying about 12 inches from the
side of the deck to keep other surfaces from getting splattered.
3) After spraying 4 or 5 boards, go back and smooth out the
finish with a foam applicator pad. Along the edges, carefully cut in the finish with a pad or brush. Repeat spraying and
spreading, and cutting in every four or five boards until the deck is finished. Keeping a wet edge prevents overlap marks.
Let the finish dry for two days before walking on it.